East Dorset - Lulworth Area

This area is characterised by dramatic coastal downland, farmed with a mix of dairy, sheep and arable. These downs slope inland to the wide expanse of the Frome and Piddle valleys which alternate between heathland (immortalized by Hardy), lush pastures, woodland and conifer forest.

For towns with all facilities choose between Dorchester (described on page 53) to the west and Saxon-walled Wareham to the east (Tourist Information Centre in South Street 01929 552740). This small peaceful town has a choice of pubs, restaurants, specialist shops plus a supermarket, an open air market on Thursdays, auctions alternate Tuesdays and boat trips on the Frome. Try to visit the gas-lit Rex cinema and the tiny Norman church at the top of North Street to see the effigy of Lawrence of Arabia. You can also visit his small cottage nearby and his grave at Moreton whose church features elegant etched windows.

The large village of Wool near the centre of this area has a a rail station (Waterloo 2 hours), good village shops, plus a late opening Spar with Link ATM.

Worth visiting: the partially restored Lulworth Castle with lovely walks in its extensive park; Monkey World, a famous ape reserve; Bovington Tank Museum with its very large collection of fighting vehicles and other interesting wartime exhibits; Athelhampton House and Gardens. wide range of popular activities. The old harbour (fishing trips) is packed with yachts and lined with attractive, mostly old buildings; it leads inland to reed beds with RSPB bird watching. The Tourist Information Centre (01305 785747) is on The Esplanade.

The coast here is the most dramatic and varied in the county. From the National Trust coastline at Ringstead with its shingle beach and undercliff wilderness, White Nothe headland rears up with a smugglers’ path zigzagging to the top. The Coast Path continues over chalk cliffs that switchback through to the famous landmarks of Durdle Door rock arch with its splendid shingle beaches on either side and the bowl-like enclosed Lulworth Cove. The village is just inland and offers a range of tourist facilities and fare. Beyond is equally interesting coastline controlled by the Army who allow access most weekends and school holidays; swimming is possible at Mupe and Worbarrow, the latter accessed from the deserted village of Tyneham (the school room and church have been preserved) followed by a half mile level walk. There are sandy beaches at Studland, Swanage and Weymouth all about 30 minutes by car.